本帖最后由 nk 于 2015-6-10 07:48 编辑
上午planetmountain上看到一条新闻，原文链接：
http://www.planetmountain.com/en ... =2&keyid=42811#。
感觉信息量挺大，试译了一下，请指教。
英国大牛Ben Moon近日4把拿下了位于英国马尔汉姆湾的雨影（Rainshadow，9a）。48岁的Ben用自己的实际行动证明了年龄对于运动攀不是障碍。雨影是一条叫raindog的线路延长线，难度9a(5.14d),2003年由Steve McClure首攀。
在上个世纪80-90年代，Ben Moon和他的搭档Jerry Moffatt是英国乃至世界范围内运动攀登的翘楚，在运动攀登难度从8a到9a的发展过程中占据了统治地位。1984年，刚刚18岁，梳着一头发辫的Moon在 Lower Pen Trwyn（北威尔士著名岩区）拿下了Statement of Youth从而引起了轰动，这是大不列颠运动攀登史上的第一条8a,是具有开创性的大事件。1989年，他又在法国FA了两条8c，分别是位于Buoux岩区的Agincourt 和位于Volx的Buoux and Maginot Line (又名Le Plafond)，这在当时都是法国最难的运动攀线路。凭借这些8c级别线路的积累，Ben迎来了他职业生涯的顶峰---完成位于英格兰Raven Tor岩场的Hubble线路。这条由一段8b+接一段7c组成的线路是世界上第一条8c+，略极限的石灰岩抱石风格线路。更牛逼的是该线路FA后的25年时间中仅仅有5个人再次完成，以至于很多世界上最牛的Climber在尝试失败后建议将该线路升级为9a，如果是这样，将意味着世界上首条9a(Action Direct, Wolfgang一年后在德国完成）的记录被改写。
1993年，Moon回到了Lower Pen Trwyn首攀了Sea of Tranquility（8c+)，然后将目光锁定在更难的project上，位于英格兰Kilnsey悬崖的North Buttress区域,这条线路角度巨大，需要将crimp的力量和耐力提升到一个新的高度。在经历了一系列令人钦佩的尝试后，伤病迫使Moon放弃了该线路。直到2000年，Steve McClure才最终首攀了该线路，命名为北部灯光(Northern Lights), 世界上第三条9a.
在Moon的全盛时期他同样对抱石难度贡献很多，比如2006年在英格兰的Burbage首攀了Voyager（8b+）。最近这些年来Moon将自己的重心更多转移到家庭和事业上，但很明显他没有间断训练。周日只尝试了4次就红点了雨影，也证明了完成Hubble的25年后，即将度过49岁生日的Moon依然是运动攀登世界的领军人物之一。
原文：
British climber Ben Moon has made the 4th ascent of Rainshadow 9a at Malham Cove, England.
48-year-old British sports climber Ben Moon proves that age is no barrier to this sport with his astounding
redpoint yesterday of Rainshadow, the 9a continuation of Raindogs at Malham Cove freed by Steve McClure
in 2003.
During the late 1980’s and early 1990’s Ben Moon, together with climbing partner Jerry Moffatt, was one
of the undisputed aces of British - and world - sport climbing, dominating the new sport and pioneering
climbs from 8a all the way to 9a.
In 1984 Moon, dreadlocked and a mere 18 years old, caused a stir with his groundbreaking Statement of
Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn, an 8a which heralded the true start of the sport climbing revolution in Great
Britain. In 1989 he made the first ascent of two of the hardest climbs in France, Agincourt at Buoux and
Maginot Line (also referred to as Le Plafond) at Volx, and these 8c’s paved the way for the pinnacle of his
career, Hubble at Raven Tor. With a Font 8B+ section followed by a 7c route, this extremely bouldery
limestone testpiece was hailed as the world’s first 8c+ but in its 25-year history it has only been repeated 5
times - and attempted unsuccessfully by many of the world’s best - giving rise to healthy speculation that it
may well be graded 9a. This, should it be confirmed, would mean that the benchmark 9a Action Direct
climbed a year later by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura would no longer be considered the
first of its grade.
In 1993 Moon retuned to Lower Pen Trwyn to make the first ascent of the 8c+ Sea of Tranquility and he also
set his sights on an even harder project still, the enormous overhanging North Buttress at Kilnsey crag. This
intense line of crimps required a new level of power and resistance and after a series impressive attempts,
injuries forced Moon to abandon his attempts. Steve McClure eventually freed the line in 2000 to create
Northern Lights, at the time the country’s third 9a.
During Moon’s heyday he also devoted much time to hard bouldering and this peaked with, amongst
others, his first ascent of Voyager 8B+ at Burbage in 2006. In the ensuing years Moon has dedicated more
time to his family and his business but evidently his perennial motivation and determination have remained
intact. Sunday’s repoint of Rainshadow is only the 4th ascent of the route and proves that, 25 years after
freeing Hubble and just days before his 49th birthday, he remains one of the world’s leading sport climbers. |
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发表于 2015-6-10 15:42
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楼主
发表于 2015-6-10 23:46
,刚知道帖子发布60分钟后不允许再编辑了。