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Chris Chan这个夏天的成果--彻底变Valley Rat了

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发表于 2009-10-13 14:04 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
born from the simulation
本帖最后由 wei 于 2009-10-13 06:09 编辑

这个板上有些朋友和Chris Chan爬过。报道一下,供参考。(虽然没有争求她的同意,但相信她不会介意)
她这个夏天什么也没干,住在Yosemite Valley里面,完成了以下一些线路
Solo Prow C2F, Washington Column, 12 pitch, Grade V
Solo Skull Queen C2, Washington Column,  13 pitch, Grade V
Wet Denim Daydream A3, Leaning Tower,  10 pitch, Grade V
Solo Zodiac A2/A3, El Capitan, 16 pitch,  Grade V
Solo Shield (via Muir) A3, El Capitan, 30 pitch, Grade VI.
她对攀岩的热情深深打动了我。 I hope you guys could feed on her energy, too.
附一段她的文字
BIG WALL SOLOS, YOSEMITE VALLEY
by Chris Chan

   The Black Tower is the 7th pitch of Zodiac, a route on the far right of El Cap. An A2/A3 pitch, it was the first requiring the iron rack. So with the added weight, I climbed up a 5.8 ramp of beautiful, hard, dark grey rock that leads to a pinnacle. I squirmed up, balanced on top with one boot, and stared at the impossibly thin seam in front of me.
   At that moment I wished I had more experience with beaks. I wished I had a partner. I wished that I hadn’t eaten so many donuts in the last month. “What’s life for if not to experiment,” I tried to cheer myself up. So I got the beaks off the rack. Placed one. Took it out. It came out like butter. I put it back. Instead of taking it out, I tested it. It held. I jiggled it a little with my weight. It still held. Nothing to do, but go up and place another beak. They kept on holding. I started to feel less worried.
   Higher up, where the thin seam merged into a small roof, I placed an offset nut. My weight was on it for about five seconds before I heard what every aid climber dreads – the grinding of metal shifting against rock, a split second before you’re flung into the air. I sailed downward, inverting along the way, my elbow scraping on a protrusion, the back of my helmet knocking the vertical face as the rope slowed my descent. I came to a stop, upside down, just above the 5.8 ramp.
   “My system works!” I screamed out, breathing hard.
   But from that moment on, I began to be terrified.
发表于 2009-10-14 10:40 | 显示全部楼层
born from the simulation
beak是什么东东啊?
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 楼主| 发表于 2009-10-14 17:22 | 显示全部楼层
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