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发表于 2008-8-15 23:35 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
born from the simulation
Dear Chinese friends
is it possible to have a part of this forum in english? This would be very interesting for foreigners coming to BJ and looking for some areas and/or friends for climbing...

Gaby from France
发表于 2008-8-16 08:38 | 显示全部楼层
born from the simulation
Welcome. I don't mind if you just post in English here. Many forumites understand some english. A separate English forum tends to get isolated, unless it gets a lot of traffic.

The board for finding partners at this site is here: http://bbs.rockbeer.org/forum.php?forumid=6

Where in France are you?
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 楼主| 发表于 2008-8-16 17:11 | 显示全部楼层
born from the simulation
Hi mh,
thanks for your answer. I'm from the South of France (Toulouse) and also webmaster of http://www.zebloc.com
I think I'll go back to BJ by november and I am trying to find any bouldering areas nearby. Do you know any? Any link?
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发表于 2008-8-18 13:12 | 显示全部楼层
born from the simulation
I can read some English but not talking...France,I just know one word which named:bonjour..  
http://www.vboulder.com/bbs/forumdisplay.php?fid=46
U can get some messages from the link that above one
but ,U need to read some chinese and find some usefull out difficultly
I`m so sorry for my pool English,just for learning
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发表于 2008-8-18 15:23 | 显示全部楼层
born from the simulation
There are several popular bouldering areas in Bai He, the major climbing area of Beijing, including Ge Bi(鸽壁),Sha Tuo Zi (沙陀子),Luan Shi Gang (乱石岗),Lao Guai (老怪),routes grading from V0-V8. They are all near De Lai Jia (De Lai's House 得来家),a famous hostel for climber in local village, just ask.
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发表于 2008-8-18 17:54 | 显示全部楼层
born from the simulation
De Lai Jia (得来家)...这个说法好诡异,德来家[不知道为何我想起德川家]国际化的路程已经开始了!
给得来家起个正式点的英文名字?
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发表于 2008-8-18 20:32 | 显示全部楼层
born from the simulation
I don't boulder so I don't know much about bouldering places. You can post in English where w13m has suggested (it's a board for Beijing climbing) or at http://www.vboulder.com/bbs/forumdisplay.php?fid=8 which is for looking for partners.

Once you get to know a few active boulderers you will know the bouldering scene pretty well soon since there are not many established bouldering places. The bouldering places mentioned in the previous post are all in Miyun, 80km north of the city. Most climbers stay in Delai's Hostel. There are more possible places nearby but they are scattered and not climbed.

I will be having a meeting in Toulouse probably in October. I guess by that time you will have already have come back to Beijing.
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发表于 2008-8-19 14:33 | 显示全部楼层
born from the simulation
maybe you guys can put topos together and publish a small guidebook, say: Baihe Climbing Select.  even just in pdf, like supertopo
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发表于 2008-8-19 23:11 | 显示全部楼层
born from the simulation
Bai He climbing guide has been there for years. Gump's online guide is also excellent with PDF downloads.
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发表于 2008-9-3 07:48 | 显示全部楼层
born from the simulation
Wei:

Check your PM.  I will  have several trips to the Sierra Nevada.  Do you know any climbers in the LA area that I can hook up with?  When does the ice set in at Lee Vining?
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发表于 2008-9-4 04:36 | 显示全部楼层
born from the simulation
Jane, replied, see ur PM. but AFAIK, ice climbing in Lee Vining is nothing compare to those on canadian ice, plus I heard this year they fixed the pipe:
------ http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=500151&msg=506135#msg506135
Last summer Southern California Edison has fixed all the leaks on the pipe they own that flows out of Ellery Lake. This includes the leak that fed the Bard/Harrington as well as other numerous leaks upslope from that one that fed the other flows. The above is according to one of the local So. Cal Edison managers.

The water for Lee Vining ice mostly came from these leaks. There is always water flowing through the pipes for the hydro plant regardless of the dry season. There are also a few small springs in the vicinity of the pipeline that provides a small amount of water for the ice flows and they may be affected by the past dry year.

So it looks like no Bard/Harrington for sure and maybe no main wall this year (unless the pipeline springs another leak). Chouinard Falls is coming in, but thin at last report. This does not bode well for California ice climbing.

Horsetail Falls in the June Lake loop is starting to look good for those who are looking for low-angle ice climbing.
-----------
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发表于 2008-10-21 11:20 | 显示全部楼层
Think Simulation
Did Mountaineer's route on Mt. Whitney on Sept. 18th, 12 hours car to car.  Route finding was tricky.

There is great potential for ice climbing in winter time.  I am hoping to do it again in winter.  Watch out for the ave prone slopes.
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发表于 2008-10-21 11:28 | 显示全部楼层
Think Simulation
Was there a lot of snow on Whitney Mountaineer's in September? Did it ten years ago  http://earth.bao.ac.cn/mh/trips/whitney1998/whitney98.html
If I were to do it again I'd bring skis -- more fun that way. The traverse on new graupel snow slope scared the heck out of me.
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发表于 2008-10-22 01:31 | 显示全部楼层
born from the simulation
Only patches of snow in the chute and the slope above the col.   I wore trail running shoes and used a Grivel 3rd tool.  It took me 7 hours going up via the Mountaineer's route and 4.5 hours down via the 11-mile hiking trail.  The weather was perfect, absolutely cloudless.

Lone Pine Camp ground was clean and quiet.   I bivyed there the night before.  All food was stored in the steel cabinet.
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