又一起快挂断裂事件

裂缝

8a.nu报道：爬到第4把快挂冲坠，锁断了。脑袋差20厘米撞地。快挂是新的。

我判断原因是挂片眼小+挂锁方向不对。

Today the 8a yearbook editor was 20cm from banging his head into the ground when he fell above the fourth clip and the lower carabiner broke. This was an almost new set of carabiners of the highest standards. 8a has heard about breaking carabiners before but these are usually old and worn out. Often it is the top carabiner that wears out on the bolt(see safety article). 8a will contact the responsible manufacturer and hear what they have to say. Perhaps 1 of every 1000 carabiners have a fault? If this is the case, is it acceptable? Have anyone out there experienced a similar thing?
Article:
http://www.8a.nu/

天空wk3368

关注什么牌子的快挂 说不定又要找回一批快挂了！

籮筐

挂片空太小 个人感觉是很容易出现这个问题的 特别是有些线路比较弯曲的 容易让快挂错位 。

路缘石

看了图片，只有ＰＥＴＺＬ是这个样子，文不太详细不懂关不关挂片锁眼大小的事，，是入绳端的弯门快挂．看断裂处有经过绳磨出的光滑痕迹．使用者应该是懂得的．＜除非不小心颠倒用错另说＞．．不过很是奇怪入绳端能把它拉断．有颠倒用错的可能．质量问题？或是？
可疑伤痕．．．

时钟

感觉这把快挂是和挂片发生扭曲错位，用力别断的，一个是挂片空间小，二是快挂受力方向有问题。
在攀爬时，抓快挂挂绳或者脱落时紧急抓快挂都很容易出现快挂横向受力，发生断裂。

狂野周末

看照片这像是一把弯门锁，还有过绳子磨擦的痕迹。
为什么断面的金属颜色是蓝色的，铝材的金属颜色应该是银灰色的，这是什么铝材谁知道？

senovo

台湾也发生了一起快挂口子割断绳子的事件，原因是快挂的歪门锁使用过度，导致走绳的歪口部分磨损了一半。使用的时候出现了吧绳子割断的事故。

senovo

裂缝

和赵凯那次一样，别在bolt杆上断了。

A few months back our editor fell and reported that his lower carabiner broke in the fall. He was 10cm from smashing his head into the rocky ground. After careful investigation it became clear that he had clipped the bolt with the lower end of the carabiner and that it was this that broke, which is much more common. At first there was a suspicion of a "bad" carabiner but then it was discovered that the carabiner had got stuck in the bolt between the screw and the bolthole (see picture for an extreme case). If this happens the carabiner only holds for about ONE THIRD of the force (3.5KN instead of 10KN). A 4m fall(2m above the last clip) at 15 meters gives a fall factor of about 0.27 and a force of 5KN, which will cause the carabiner to break if it is stuck like shown here. In addition to the manufacturer testing, an 8a associate has tested this in his lab and the above is true for most type of carabiners, and not just the brand used by our editor. Take care out there!

http://www.8a.nu/

w13m

楼上上那已经不是绳子不靠谱鸟,是用那锁的人胆太肥了,磨成那样怎么想都是少很多强度了吧?