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上次网上传要搞了结果证明只是练习，这次真搞了，thomas在roof掉了一个aider,后面比较惨，不过最后还是2:48:35完成。关于hans和yuji的记录的具体时间有争议，到底是2:48整还是2:48:50.如果是后者的话，那这次hubers就快了15秒
不管是快了还是慢了，都很疯狂。hehe
They did it!!
Reposted from Elcap-pics on SuperTopo:
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Yeah... I know ... you want to know the real deal not some crappy rumor you
got from some bus driver who talked to some guy who was hitching by the
bridge this morning.... and you know that ECP will give you the straight
shite good or bad with no favoritism... Right?.... Right! So I am going to
get to the Nose news first and cover the rest as usual...
I dragged my carcus out of the rack at 6am and cruised over to the cafe to
get a good breakfast in as I was going to be without any food for quite a
while today... the place was a wasteland... but my buddy Ted of KFC, Lance,
Ted climbing team showed up... we had a casual breakfast and departed for
the meadow... I picked up a couple of the monkeys who were hitching our way
even though the van was trashed with all my stuff.. got to the bridge around
7. The strip was packed with cars and there were all kinds of people there
to watch the coming action.
Even our much maligned ranger Jack was present to see the events unfold. I
set up my scope and reached across the distance to get the Hubers in close
so I could make sure everything was on the up and up with this whole deal...
The Brothers were smoking up the route as I got my merceless eye trained on
them and started shooting... they started a little before 7 so I picked them
up as Alex climbed into the stovelegs. There was a party on a portaledge
half way up the stovelegs who just sat there taking pics as Alex blew by
short fixing for Thomas... I figured they would make Dolt tower in an hour
from the start but turns out they were at the Jardine Traverse cutoff in an
hour... sweet!! They raced up to ECtower and in 1 min 38 sec alex climbed
Texas flake. In no time at all he was on the boot and Thomas was cleaning
like a man possessed. Thomas was soon on the toe of the boot, a place where
I felt they wasted too much time in the past using 4 to 5 minutes to change
over leaders and shoes and such... Thomas was out of there in less than 2
minutes and they were on record pace .... they looked strong and everything
was working in their favor. They smoked by a party on camp 4 and soon thomas
was on the great roof... then things started to unravel... Thomas missed a
few reaches and had to re-try a couple of moves and I said to someone.... "
ugh oh.. Thomas is having some trouble".... the clock seemed to be running
away from them and I started to have my doubts about this attempt... then
one of Thomas's aid slings floated away in the breeze and they were in deep
doo doo. But Thomas redoubled his efforts and managed to make the pitch with
just one aider but we all knew what that mistake could cost... they had to
jug with only one aider now or the leader had to aid with only one aider and
there was no spare. But they charged upward in a somewhat, for them,
awkward style that was not the smooth rehersed style we have become
acustomed to.
They went out of my view after Alex jugged to the Glowering spot but it
still seemed possible ... I knew that they still had to pass the two
Croatian women up high in the dihedral... we wondered ... "what if one of
these women was hired by Hans to seduce the manly Alex while Thomas was not
looking?!!" I just had to wait for Alex to come into view just below the
alcove.... the minutes ticked off.... It was like the astronauts going
behind the moon and being out of communication for 20 minutes... I waited
and watched... watched and waited... I watched my wrist watch and tried to
chat a bit with the people who had chosen to watch from the bridge... I kept
looking and just about when I had given up hope there came Alex sprinting
into view... a vast roar, peppered with monkey calls arose from the crowd...
they still had a few minutes but had to bust ass to get it done... soon
they were both on the last pitch with Alex racing up the last few feet to
the tree and Thomas flailing at the rope with the Jumars and lunging up the
the last few feet with Alex reeling him in like a giant fish on a line
Then it was over... and soon a puzzled look came over everyones face... did
they or didnt they??... I had them at around 2:51 but I had no idea of when
they started and just figured it was about 6:45, which turned out not to be
the case in the end... anyway Gleason got a call from SAR Greg who was on
top and he said they passed him going down and said they had missed it by 35
seconds, having done the thing in 2:48:35.... of course we were just
flabbergasted that it could have been so close after such a climb!! They
were soon down and then things got more interesting yet......
BUT........................ turns out that they thought that Hans and Yuji
had done it in 2:48 FLAT and that is why they felt they had missed it... BUT
.....Hans is nothing if not a fanatic about the EXACT time for doing things.
...So in a rush Alex and Max raced off in the car to the lodge and a YFI
connection to get on Hans site and see if he had some change on his 2:48
time like they did... turns out he did.... 50 seconds... so it was, that the
Huber Brothers, after a long and dedicated effort to climb the Nose in the
fastest time, came to be the record holders by a mere 15 seconds!!! The
crowd went wild!!!!
Later we all sat around the bridge and chatted and took pictures and had
some beers... everyone was pleased... but Alex and Thomas informed me that
they would go again in 4 days to do the route and make their best effort to
knock a few minutes off the time so as to quell any possible controversy the
closeness of the times might incure. My personal belief, from what I saw,
and the way the events unfolded was that they did indeed break the record,
albeit by the narrowest of margins. Hans is my good friend and a great and
generous man and I wanted to make sure that his record was carefully guarded
so no one could get it away from him unethically... Remember my friends.. I
am the guardian of the gate to the El Cap adventure and I am not about to
let any BS screw up things here..... IMO it was all on the up and up....and
the time is correct... |
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发表于 2007-10-10 04:47
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