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关于靴子:那个更可爱一点?

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发表于 2006-12-25 13:08 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
born from the simulation
极度那里超值的Nepal Extreme卖完了,只好学么一双新的靴子。

Trango Ice EVO
http://www.lasportiva.com/catalogue/catalogo.php?cat=11&cod3=275&Language=EN

Evolution of the famous model Trango Ice. Ice and mixed climbing boot
designed for the modern requirements of the mountaineer
: water repellent,
lightweight, insulated, high performance. The model features an abrasion
resistant water repellent Keprotec® upper, an innovative multidirectional
hinge “3D Flex system”, that allows incredible flexibility of the ankle, made
of waterproof Flex Tec 2. It has a small incorporated gaiter in elastic and water
repellent Schoeller®-Dynamic. Insulating Thinsulate® lining. Unique and very
functional patent-pending “Tri-Point Lacing Harness” (TPLH System), designed
to lock the heel and ankle firmly in place. Lace lock that allows a double tension.
Double rubber reinforcement on the toe box. Rubber rand with differentiated
height on the areas of higher abrasion. New internal volumes for more warmth.
Upper: Water repellent Schoeller®-Keprotec® + Flex Tec 2
Reinforcements: Water repellent Lorica® with waterproof external coating
Colour: Yellow/Black
Lining: Insulating Thinsulate®
Insole: Insulating Ibi-Thermo 9 mm
Sole: Vibram® with antishock insert
Sizes: 37 - 47,5 including half sizes
Weight: Gr. 1.550 per pair

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Trango Extreme EVO gtx
http://www.lasportiva.com/catalogue/catalogo.php?cat=11&cod3=278&Language=EN

Evolution of the model Trango S Evo. It features the Gore-Tex® membrane,
that guarantees waterproofness and breathability. A multi-purpose insulated
lightweight boot, designed to satisfy the requirements of many kinds of
mountaineering. Suitable for ice, mixed terrain, but also for traditional rock
climbing and hiking.
With a water repellent idro-perw leather upper, it features
the multidirectional hinge “3D Flex System”, that allows incredible flexibility
of the ankle, made in waterproof Flex Tec 2. The lacing system is derived from
climbing shoe technology, with the addition of a lace lock that allows a double
tension. Double rubber reinforcement on the toe box. HP3 midsole, suitable
for crampons and double profile Vibram® sole, easy to resole.
Upper: 2,6 mm water repellent idro-perw roughout leather + Flex Tec 2
Reinforcements: Water repellent Lorica® with waterproof external coating
Colour: Yellow/Black
Lining: Gore-Tex®
Insole: Insulating Ibi-Thermo 9 mm
Sole: Vibram® with antishock insert
Sizes: 37 - 47,5 including half sizes
Weight: Gr. 1.800 per pair

——————————————————————————————————

Trango Extreme Evo L. Gtx/Duratherm
http://www.lasportiva.com/catalogue/catalogo.php?cat=11&cod3=336&Language=EN

Boot designed for the modern requirements of the alpinist: waterproof,
lightweight, insulated, high performance. The ideal balance for people who want
a light boot suitable for crampons. Featuring the same abrasion resistant and
waterproof Cordura® upper of the Trango S Evo, and a Gore-Tex®/Duratherm®
membrane, that guarantees waterproofness and breathability, combined
with an innovative antishock HP3 midsole, Mountain Tech Suspension.
Suitable for alpinism, ice climbing and hiking. Featuring the multidirectional
hinge “3D Flex System”, that allows incredible flexibility of the ankle, is made
of waterproof Flex Tec 2. The improved lacing system features a lace lock that
allows double tension. Double rubber reinforcement on the toe box, double
density Vibram® sole - easy to resole.
Upper: Water repellent Cordura® with idro-treatment + Flex Tec 2
Reinforcements: Water repellent Lorica® with waterproof external coating
Colour: Silver
Lining: Gore-Tex®/Duratherm
Insole: Insulating Ibi-Thermo 9 mm
Sole: Vibram® with antishock insert
Sizes: 37 - 47,5 including half sizes
Weight: Gr. 1.600 per pair
我挺倾向于这款的,Suitable for alpinism, ice climbing and hiking.

——————————————————————————————————

Nepal EVO gtx
http://www.lasportiva.com/catalogue/catalogo.php?cat=1&cod3=280&Language=EN

Evolution of the model Nepal Extreme, ideal for technical use on high elevation terrain and ice. The usage of the insulating Gore-Tex®/Duratherm® lining makes
it completely waterproof and breathable. The upper features the “3D Flex
System” hinge, innovative system of multidirectional ankle hinge, combined
with an elastic anatomical snow protection in the back, with a small integrated
elastic gaiter. New snug fitting and comfortable last. The insulating Ibi-Thermo
footbed gives the boot exceptional insulation from the cold. New tapered HP3
midsole and shock absorbing PU inserts in the area under the heel and the ball
of the foot. New exclusive sole with the innovative technology IBS (Impact
Brake System), developed in collaboration with Vibram®, designed to soften
impact on hard ground. Removable insulating footbed. New removable tongue
with incorporated ventilation system, gives the option of adjusting the fit,
personalized for any foot. The EZ OUT pull loop (Patent Pending) facilitates the
unlocking of the lace lock. The new model weights only 2050 grams per pair.
Upper: 3+ mm water-repellent idro-perw roughout leather
Colour: Yellow
Lining: Gore-Tex®/Duratherm®
Insole: Insulating Ibi-Thermo 9 mm
Sole: Vibram® IBS, easy to resole
Sizes: 37 - 48, including half sizes
Weight: Gr. 2.050 per pair
 楼主| 发表于 2006-12-25 13:18 | 显示全部楼层
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发表于 2006-12-25 15:54 | 显示全部楼层
born from the simulation
都挺可爱的,看你干嘛用了。有钱,一样来一双,没事拿出来看看。没钱,我觉得Nepal EVO 好,登山、攀冰都不错。比Nepal Extreme还轻。
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发表于 2006-12-25 18:37 | 显示全部楼层
born from the simulation
Nepal EVO gtx 好吧
如果不考虑钱的因素,我会选这个。

就是有点重,套用无忌的说法就是:
买自己买得起的,扛得动的 最贵&最重 的装备。
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 楼主| 发表于 2006-12-25 20:00 | 显示全部楼层
Think Simulation
La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX的一些评价

From REI:
"A pinnacle of mountaineering footwear! Light, warm, Nepal EVO Gore-Tex® boots by La Sportiva® are the choice for serious climbs. Expedition-worthy, 3.2mm silicone impregnated Idro-Perwanger leather uppers offer the finest in natural breathability and waterproof durability. Total waterproof protection and insulating warmth from seam-sealed Gore-Tex Duratherm® liners. High-rise, Vibram® XSV sticky rubber rands stand up to rock abrasion and crampon wear. Molded heel cups and 3D Flex system at ankles stabilize feet while allowing comfort on long approaches or using French technique. Anatomically shaped for comfort, integrated elastic gaiters help keep out snow and trail debris while keeping in warmth. Roller lacing system, locking D-rings and lace loops allow for effortless on and off even while wearing gloves. EZ OUT pull loops allow quick release of lace locks for easier exit from boots. Removable, padded and ventilated tongues offer a secure, custom fit while relieving pressure from laces. Removable footbeds add support and extra comfort; 9mm Ibi-Thermo insoles are a cork-like material that stiffen & help insulate. HDPE plastic midsoles provide mountaineering stiffness and stay strong in extreme cold while eliminating the weight and chill of a steel shank. Shock-absorbing polyurethane inserts and air cushioning soak up shock and vibration on rock and ice. Durable, high-traction, Vibram® IBS (Impact Brake System) rubber outsoles deliver reliable traction on wet and dry terrain. Molded heel and toe welt areas allow compatibility with most types of crampons, including strap-on, hybrid and rigid step-in."

From Backcountry.com:
"The La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX Mountaineering Boot, designed for technical mountaineering on high-elevation rock, snow, and ice terrain, is the evolution of the Nepal Extreme boot. "

From EMS:
"Extremely light for a mountaineering boot (just 4 lb. 9 oz. per pair) the Nepal EVO is ideal for technical use on high-elevation terrain and ice. Features a rough-out leather upper. Leather mountaineering boots yield greater sensitivity and hiking-boot comfort when compared with plastic boots. Insulating Gore-Tex Duratherm lining makes it completely waterproof and breathable. Innovative 3D Flex ankle system allows multidirectional articulation of the ankle and is combined with an elastic anatomical snow protector in the back and a small integrated elastic gaiter to keep the snow out. Insulating Ibi-Thermo footbed gives the boot exceptional insulation from the cold. New tapered HP3 midsole and shock-absorbing PU inserts in the area under the heel and the ball of the foot. New exclusive sole with IBS (Impact Brake System), developed in collaboration with Vibram, is designed to soften impact on hard ground. New removable tongue with incorporated ventilation system gives the option of adjusting the fit to any foot. Upper: 3+ mm water-repellent Idro-Perwanger rough-out leather. Midsole: 8-9mm HP3/PU inserts/SBR Aircushion."

From Moosejaw:
"The Evolution of the Nepal Extreme has taken hardcore mountaineering boots to another level with the Nepal EVO GTX by La Sportiva. The addition of Gore-Tex Duratherm lining makes the boot completely waterproof and warmer for high altitudes and extreme cold along with a new breathable tongue for moisture management. Specifications: Avg. Weight: 4 lbs. 9 oz. Key Features: Patented 3-D flex ankle system hinge Integrated anatomical elastic snow gaiter 3.2mm+ silicone impregnated Idro-Perwanger Roughout Leather with sticky rubber rands Tapered HP3 midsole with shock absorbing PU inserts under the heel and the ball of the foot IBS (Impact Brake System) designed exclusively with Vibram to soften impact on hard ground and improve traction Technical Specifications: Upper: 3.2mm+ Idro-Perwanger Roughout Leather with high-abrasion resistant fabric/Vibram XSV Rands Construction: Board Lasted Last: Nepal Lining: Gore-Tex Duratherm Sole: Vibram IBS Midsole: 8-9mm HP3/PU inserts/SBR Aircushion Insole: Insulating Ibi-thermo 9mm"
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 楼主| 发表于 2006-12-25 20:06 | 显示全部楼层
born from the simulation
http://www.mtntools.com/cat/alpineice/boots/lasportivatrangoiceevo.htm

The TRANGO ICE EVO has evolved to meet the needs of today's ice and modern mixed climbers who want to hike and climb in the same boots. From the ground up, the ICE EVO is loaded to stack the odds in your favor: This boot uses the same asymmetrical Trango Last and Vibram sticky Supertrek Lavaredo sole with 6-7 mm HP3 midsole as the EXTREME EVO GTX's. Ditto for the 3D Flex System ankle. Uppers are a combination of water proof Lorica (yellow) and water repellent Scholler Keprotec side panels backed with 150 g Thinsulate insulation and 3 bar knit lining. New is a built in Schoeller Dynamic gaiter with elastic drawcord and stretch cover to hide your laces from errant crampon points. Unique to the ICE EVO is the sophisticated Tri-Point Lacing System that locks your heels down for zero heel lift and secure bat hangs. This you have to experience. Delivered anywhere in North America.

best: ice & mixed         fit: med-narrow, asymmetrical
color: yellow / black         wt: 3 lb 13 oz / 1.72 kg
size: 37-47.5         price: $380.00

__________________________________
http://www.zappos.com/n/p/dp/5291483/c/16740.html

2005-06-03 07:03:50 La Sportiva Trango Ice Evo
Reviewer: Isaac W from MInnesota
Overall:4 stars   Comfort:5 stars   Look:5 stars
Shoe Size: Felt a half size smaller than marked
Shoe Width: Felt true to width
Shoe Arch: Moderate arch support

And the winner is... I have tried on at least 8 different pairs of boots trying to find one that fits my foot well. This one is obviously it. Here is my reasoning for going with this boot: 1: Fit. It is comfortable- I recently got back from some spring mountaineering in Colorado on mixed terrain and snow/ice to 60 degrees. My feet never felt discomfort! I wore them around the office for one day before leaving for Colorado and they seemed to be effortless in breaking in- although I do expect they will get even more comfortable after about one more year. 2: Design. I was originally looking at the Trango Evo GTX, but decided that I might as well buy a boot that I can use ice climbing as well (I have crampons that require both a toe and heel bail.) I really love the lacing. It really pulls your heel in and you can crank down the lacing so there is virtually NO lift in the heel. Or you can loosen up the boot, tighten it up over the top of the foot, and it hikes really well. The weight is not bad at all, still not as light at the Evo GTX, but hey, not much is. I would have liked to see a Gore-Tex liner in this boot. I did notice my foot got a little wet when I walked through some streams and or walking in soft/wet snow. The boots dried out quickly. I was not wearing gaiters, so that could be part of my problem. I really like the built in gaiter- it helped keep snow out of my boot when I was glissaiding. It also keeps small rocks out when hiking. I have yet to try anything completely vertical/overhanging on ice yet but I did some class 4 rock climbing in them and they edged and climbed really well. Overall, this will be the boot I grab when ever the temps get close to or below freezing and I am climbing in the lower 48. Great job La Sportiva! And a big THANK YOU to Zappos.com for free shipping on both the purchase and the return. I will definitely shop with Zappos again!

———————————————————————————
http://www.lasportiva.com/magazine/inglese/redazionale/TrangoIceEvoRivistaPareti.htm


The model Trango Ice Evo has been tested by the magazine Pareti

In the middle of December 2004 has arrived in the news-stand the issue nr. 42 of Pareti, specialized magazine of the Italian mountain publishing trade. The magazine is bound to the season and thus a wide part of this issue is reserved to the ice-climbing world. In this context, at page 82, has been published a test about a new product, La Sportiva Trango Ice Evo, just out in the best shops specialized in mountaineering.
Here follows the integral text of the test, by the editor of Pareti.

Oscar Durbiano


LA SPORTIVA TRANGO ICE EVO

A test of a new model 2005 of the catalog La Sportiva, a boot dedicated to the ones who really go to the mountains.

As the name itself says, the Trango Ice Evo is a reviewed, slightly changed and, we would say, also improved version of the model that came into the shops last year. It isn’t a question of materials or of adopted technical solutions, but of both things together, although, from the point of view of design, the product maintains a look coherent with the preceding model. We should state beforehand that to realize such a technical product is a very difficult alchemy: a boot that works on the wall like a climbing shoe, that absorbs the impact of hitting with the crampons, that walks well on the trail while being lightweight, insulating, absolutely waterproof, nice to look at….
Let’s start from the weight, we found it to be 1,55 kg per pair… nothing…. An excellent result especially if we consider it combined with the tests of waterproofness and insulation. Because it would be easy to get a lighter boot, just taking away some material, but then it would become harder to save waterproofness and insulation…. Then let’s look at the waterproofness, that is a guarantee on the entire boot, water doesn’t come through; in our tests we have noticed only an increased humidity near some stitching with the empty boot; the warmth of the foot and the presence of the inner sock make it totally negligible. In the dangerous point, at the collar, where snow or water can get in from above, a small gaiter solves the problems almost always. In the case you are walking in deep snow or along a waterfall with running water, an added gaiter will solve every problems, but this is an accessory that this boot lets you often forget. The sling to adjust the gaiter is slightly too long; pull it inside to avoid accidentally hitting it with the crampons.
Regarding the insulation, everything all right: combined with a warm and breathable sock the Trango Ice Evo will stay with you the entire day in condition of normal temperature. The test took place at the end of November 2004, with humid and warm weather for the period, and temperatures never lower than – 5°; not very significant for extreme conditions, but the shape of the toe box lets expect optimum results also with colder temperature. In fact the boot, although evidently designed with climbing in mind, leaves margin of movement in the right points, a guarantee against frostbite.
Where the boot is really state–of-the-art is climbing, both with crampons and on rock, smearing the Vibram sole on the footholds. Great! The feeling of precise edging and even of friction is very near to the one of a medium level climbing shoe, thanks particularly to the hinge system of the ankle, that allows to move the boot practically like a climbing shoe, try it to believe! Thus don’t be worried, neither on the icefalls, nor on mixed routes, if you aren’t able to move properly it is your fault, not of the Trango, that makes perfectly its duty. A part of this functionality is due to the innovative lacing system, that is the most evident change compared with the preceding model. This system, called T.P.L.H System, allows to adjust the boot extremely precisely, and it’s important to notice that if you lace accurately your boot before starting on the trail or the waterfall, your foot will stay well locked for several hours. The problem (and here we are speaking about one of the question marks of the entire production of the sector, not only about this shoe in particular) is to lace properly the boot, especially in very cold conditions, when perhaps you must pull the laces wearing gloves. To facilitate all this there are two lace locks in the middle that make the tension on the lower and upper part independent from each other. If it weren’t possible to lock the lower part before pulling the laces on the ankle, the T.P.L.H system wouldn’t be of much use. We have found a few difficulties only while locking and unlocking the two lace locks that, we repeat, are fundamental for the Trango to give the best of itself. The dimensions of the lace locks are a little small and they work with difficulty if they are dirty. Practical and functional is the new protection of the knot, to avoid the freezing of the lacing in a single block. Last but not least let’s speak about walking, whose comfort and efficacy are usually inversely proportional with the comfort while climbing on a vertical wall. Everything well, beside a slight “step” effect on flat terrain, to which you get quickly used adapting your gait.
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 楼主| 发表于 2006-12-28 20:16 | 显示全部楼层
born from the simulation
Nepal EVO,拿下。

Trange Ice EVO 没有我的号码。其他两款没有货。
看来,买鞋也碰运气。这就是传说中的缘分吗?
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