好看不中用

jane

Black Diamond的头盔 Half Dome得过最佳设计奖 （Best Design ２００３）。

但好看不中用。请看 我的搭档，专业向导 Richard 的评论：
I just want to clarify some points about my friend's desth, He was Brent
Raymond and yes he fell at Carlsberg Column in Field, Canada, but was
last November 19 (2004) it was very icy ground he was wearing every part
of the safety chain gear you can think, except " being belaying at the
place of the exposure", about the comment "Another lesson: put your
helmet on as soon as you leave the car!" is very good advice but it was
not the problem in my friend's case, so assuming get you wrong 99.99% of
the time, so "Another lesson: never ever assume in any kind of
situation", the fact was he was wearing his helmet from the moment he left the
car and at the moment of his fall, the point here iswhich kind of helmet are you using? and for what kind of activity?, he was using the lighter and coolest looking Black Diamond  Half Dome (which split in two pieces at the back of his neck) this particular model is not protecting you from a fall at all, specially from blows at the back and at the front of you head, just from rock falling at the top for being just a low profile helmet, if you really want to learn a lesson, here is: " buy the right gear for the right application or activity", in this case buy a real helmet like Rock Ecrin from Petzl for example or any brand that give you a full rage of protection, don't go for low-profile ones because are exactly that low profile not to much of protection in over all, despite what the manufacture say in the catalog or your "friends" because look and sound very cool to wear one of those, but unfortunately it is not cool at all at the moment you need it the most!.

mh

意思Brian死前带的BD头盔在坠落从后面冲击后裂成两半，完全失去保护意义。建议那些
看起来酷的紧凑头盔不要用在冲击可能来自除头顶外其他方向的情况（一般登山情况）。

jane

头盔能通过UIAA的标准，只是合格品的最低限度。
有的头盔为了好看，或轻量，造型的头部覆盖率很低，或者做得很薄。

而有的头盔则从实用的角度出发，做得很结实，造型不一定好看，但对头部的覆盖率较高。
其性能指标远远超过UIAA的标准。比如HB的Dyneema防正顶冲击的性能是UIAA标准的十倍（ＵIAA说一次就够，Dyneema砸十次才坏）。

我的哥们说BD的Half Dome不好，那结论是圈子里公认的。戴什么头盔管用，不到出事的时候不知道。一块小石子儿落下来不碍事，但摔个十米就见分晓了。可惜一般人很难有摔个十米去验证头盔好坏的机会，这和试用凉鞋，背包还不一样。所以读者既可以选择坐在电脑前点评这些血的教训，或者马上换个头盔，以防万一。防的是万一，这万一可能永远不会发生。

圈子里公认的结实头盔，推荐：
HB El Cap Helmet （杜邦凯芙拉纤维复合材料）
http://www.bittersweetgear.com/hbelcapkevhe.html
HB dyneema Helmet (dyneema／碳纤维混合复合材料）
http://www.bittersweetgear.com/hbdyncarhel.html
Petzl - Ecrin Helmet

不要在这里叨叨 xxx明星戴xxx 头盔，那些人是拿赞助的。看见那个Ed Viesturs了吗？无氧１４座８０００米的第六人。他穿的是MHW conduit, 谁不知道eVent好啊？那他干嘛还穿conduit呢？

想想吧。。。