请教：达孜、乔乌依与Thomas Bubendorfer

树叉儿

今天参加了一个主题为“朗盛中国登峰至极”的发布会，会上主办方隆重介绍了这位名为Thomas Bubendorfer 托马斯.布本多尔夫的奥地利登山家，和他与西藏登山协会的计划——攀登西藏的两座未峰达孜（6500m）和乔乌依（7500m)。
因为是商业活动，所以个人不是很信任主办方的介绍，特此想请教一下，谁知道这个Thomas Bubendorfer 是个啥级别的登山家，达孜与乔乌依又是啥级别的未峰？

华仔

Thomas Bubendorfer 是一个FREE SOLO高手，主要在欧洲登山，最有名的是三大北壁的FREE SOLO，但在极高海拔并没有出色表现。
达孜峰在启孜对面，两个峰尖，我去穷母岗日时被告诉是未登峰，看起来不是很好爬。乔乌依峰是已登峰，在卓奥友边上，首登是法日联合登山队，三个峰尖，最高峰高度是7351。至少有三条已登顶线路。如果是登北壁的话，那难度还是很大的。
不知他们攀登如何展开，按说托哥是不要协作，不结组，也不搞路绳的。藏登习惯的是喜玛拉雅围攻方式。

自由的风

回复 2# 华仔

华哥还是渊博。
恕我寡闻，这老哥以前我还真没听说过，Google了一下，看了看他的个人网站，感觉宣传意味比较浓厚。个人觉得大牛算不上，也许可以算个中牛吧。

陶瓷虾

还算满强的，爬过Peak Korzhenevskaya（帕米尔雪豹5峰中的一座），21岁时候solo三大北壁，24岁solo了fitz roy，29岁solo阿空加瓜南壁。不过好像没什么动静，也没有赞助，年纪大了？快50了

冬冬

这哥们儿又有动静了，刚刚有人转了个文档给我。谁知道里面提到的“去年有2汉族/4藏族中国登山者参加”的活动具体是怎么回事儿？


China Summiteers project by Thomas Bubendorfer 2012


Thomas Bubendorfer

Thomas Bubendorfer is one of the most successful European climbers who has excelled in adapting a very reduced climbing style to mountain climbing. Among his major achievements are the first free solo climbs of the 3.000 meter south face of Aconcagua, 6.956 m, in the Andes, Argentina, and the first free solo climb of the Eiger north face in the Alps, when he was only 21 years young. He holds about 90 first free solo climbing records and first ascents.

To this day he climbs about 120 days years and trains at least 15 hours per week on average to enhance his strength and endurance. In the last years he has become a specialist on frozen waterfalls and winter climbs – in teams. His most recent success was a technical unclimbed mountain, Bi-Tsi, 6.228 m, in Tibet in September of 2011.

Thomas has written seven books. His first in Chinese, On Life and Mountain Climbing, was published in Beijing in July 2011. He is giving speeches on his achievement, risk-management, quality and goal-setting philosophy to major corporations around the world and he is consulting select business executives on the same issues and on the balance of body and mind.


Why

One of his clients is German chemical giant Lanxess AG, which operates six plants in China (12% of turnover Euros 5 billion). Lanxess sponsors the Young European Classics orchestra consisting of top Chinese and European musicians. The goal is to further the understanding between different cultures and to promote Lanxess’ philosophy of highest technical standards which Lanxess is famous for in their industry.

To extend their sponsorship activities about the topics of culture exchange and top achievement Lanxess has become Thomas Bubendorfer’s partner in his “Summiteers in China” project:









The program

A team of six Chinese climbers will be invited to spend two weeks in February to climb hard routes in the Montblanc region, France, in February.

In the spring of 2012, the same team we will try to climb the unclimbed Quowoyi, 7.230 m, in Tibet.

All costs of travel (flights to Europe, to Lhasa, transportation, gear, permits, food, accommodation) will be paid by Lanxess.

A two-man filming team (climbing specialists) will be present each time we climb and a 42-minute documentary will be produced and distributed around the world, with special focus on China TV.

Additional members of the expedition will be two of Thomas’ best climbing partners and friends, both leading mountain guides and safety experts and extreme climbers. One of the two cameramen is also a mountain guide and one of the Alps most highly experienced mountain safety experts.


This year’s program (2012) is preceded by a similar program which has taken place in 2011 when six climbers from China have been to Austria to climb frozen waterfalls and when the same team successfully climbed two new mountains in Tibet in September.

This team consisted of two Han Chinese and four Tibetan Chinese climbers. In 2012 the four Tibetan climbers will be replaced by Han Chinese climbers.

In the fall of 2012 a book about the joint climbs of both years will be published and a lecture tour in China, and probably Korea, Japan and Singapor, will follow.



The reason why Lanxess supports this project which they will invest in about € 2 million is to use the aspects of technology transfer and the understanding and (non-political!) cooperation between two peoples in their public relations.

jane

有的人爬得好，有的人会做秀，有的人爬得好也会做秀。有的人爬得不好会做秀，更会坏事。我这是有感而发。前几年American alpine club和中国方面有中美登山女子交流。AAC这边的活动召集人，把这个好事给搞得怪里怪气的。我以前还以为是只有我一个人觉得这个活动组织得不好，后来（二周前）和AAC的几位干部有机会聚会，才知道从大牛到普通会员以及AAC 的积极分子都觉得非常的不爽。啊啊。

farm

他26岁时从20米坠落重伤，九节脊椎断裂、右手腕粉碎，左脚腕和脚跟粉碎；2年后，单人无绳完成3000米高的阿空加瓜南壁，耗时16.5小时。
from 其著作《人生如登山》，中国发展出版社

陶瓷虾

bubendorfer还有个成就是83年创造的eiger北壁速攀纪录，保持了20年，被christoph hainz打破。但前面说的first free solo肯定不对，first solo是63年，eiger北壁也很难完全free，hinterstoisser traverse那块就很难过去。

明年2月会有6人去mont blanc？都是藏队的？他们现在和ensa走得好像很近。

陶瓷虾

后来（二周前）和AAC的几位干部有机会聚会
jane 发表于 2011-11-28 13:23

冬冬

回复 8# 陶瓷虾

现在是中登协方面在找这些人，或许会是汉族为主。