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本帖最后由 wei 于 2009-8-11 04:04 编辑
继John Bachar之后,中国攀岩的老朋友Craig Luebben也去了
http://mountainproject.com/v/col ... _cascades/106512731
More accident details in this Seattle Times article by Susan Gilmore:
http://seattletimes.nwsource.com ... _webclimber10m.html
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Monday, August 10, 2009 - Page updated at 03:00 p.m.
Colorado mountain climber Craig Luebben killed in North Cascades
By Susan Gilmore
Seattle Times staff reporter
A well-known Colorado mountain climber was killed and his partner was injured Sunday after they were hit by falling ice in North Cascades National Park.
The climber who was killed, Craig Luebben, and Willie Benegas were training for an American Mountain Guide exam at the time of the accident, said Mark Gunlogson, with Seattle's Mountain Madness. Benegas worked for Mountain Madness.
The accident happened early Sunday morning on Mount Torment in the North Cascades, near Marblemount.
Benegas was briefly hospitalized.
According to Gunlogson, the accident occurred when the glacier pulled away from a rock, possibly because of the recent warm weather, and chunks of ice fell on them. Luebben fell into an ice moat, like a crevasse. Benegas said there was no warning, according to Gunlogson.
"It's one of those things, a hazard climbers confront in the North Cascades," said Gunlogson. "These were two incredibly experienced climbers. Their timing didn't work out for them."
Kelly Bush, the district ranger with North Cascades National Park search and rescue, said the two climbers had crossed the upper part of the Taboo Glacier, with Luebben leading. A chunk of ice fell beneath him and he fell about 40 feet into the moat, hanging from his rope and suffering massive trauma.
Luebben was still alive when Benegas was able to climb down to him, move him to a ledge and call 911 for rescue. But Luebben died before he could be rescued, said Bush, adding that neither climber did anything wrong in their ascent. "This kind of thing is inherent in mountaineering," she said. "These men were highly skilled, on top of their game. Some of the elite of mountain climbing."
Luebben lived in Colorado and was a well-known climber, writer, photographer and teacher, said Simon Fryer, with Colorado Mountain School.
According to his Web site, Luebben climbed all over the world and made first ascents on rocks in Colorado, Utah, Wyoming, West Virginia, Canada, Mexico, Cuba, Puerto Rico and other climbing locations. He also wrote seven books on climbing.
"Craig was an incredible, generous individual with a huge heart," said Fryer. "He was a teacher at heart. He always went way out of his way to help people. Craig did it all. Anything in the mountains he loved."
Susan Gilmore: 206-464-2054 or [email protected]
Copyright © The Seattle Times Company
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and from the amga website
http://amga.com/about/news.php
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On the 9th the pair were attempting to climb the Torment and Forbidden Traverse, starting the traverse on the SE Face of Torrent via the Taboo Glacier. At the bergshrund, with Craig leading and Willie belaying, Craig attempted to bypass the remnant ice hanging above the bergshrund by ascending rock on the right, and then traversing left on to the ice for the exit moves. According to Wille, at approximately 0630 as Craig transitioned from the rock to the ice, a block of ice described as being the size of a car calved off taking Craig with it, resulting in a 30 foot fall. While not struck by the initial block, Craig was pelted by debris as he hung from his rope. Willie managed to get Craig to his belay stance in the bergshrund, stabilize and treat his injuries, and contact rescue personnel. Despite Willie’s heroic efforts and a swift response from NCNP SAR personnel, Craig succumbed to his injuries.
Willie suffered minor injuries to his leg and is expected to make a full recovery. |
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