长坪沟First ascents in the Changping Goa Valley

自由的风

http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/above/changping06/







In October 2006, Alpinists Ben Clark and Josh Butson ventured to the Quonglai Mountains in Western China's Sichuan Province. Clark, an Osprey and La Sportiva athlete inspired and encouraged by mentor Charlie Fowler, was on a quest for adventure and first ascents on virgin granite. The pair found what they were looking for and the adventure can now be viewed at: therestofeverest.com

Butson and Clark were the first pair to climb in the Changping Goa valley in "pure" Alpine style, eschewing the traditions of the past by hiking from the mouth of the valley unaided by horses. On the way to exploring the remote mountains the pair were robbed, pushed a Yugo over a 4000-meter pass in a blizzard, denied the permits they needed to climb the peak they wished to attempt, and on their first foray were actually chased out of the valley by a wild bull yak. When they returned unfased, the mountains were ripening into winter conditions, and the pair climbed on three peaks, making the first ascent of a peak they named "The Falcon" and establising the most technical mixed route the valley has seen, "Up the Gullet" a beautiful mixed climb that weighed in at AI5+, 5.7, M8.

Viewers can follow along for the next two weeks on therestofeverest.com, a website dedicated to demystifying Clark's successful 2003 ascent of the mountain and its culture. At present, over 200,000 viewers have been following Clark's Everest ascent. The following are Clark’s photos f the Changping Goa valley.

自由的风

http://www.therestofeverest.com/podcast-episodebc01.html

自由的风

http://media.libsyn.com/media/treeline/episodebonuschina002.mp4 一段video，他们明显爬的就是婆缪峰。开始一段是东壁，缺口那一块是东北山脊，是我们曾经考虑过的线路。

为什么叫“野马”呢，不明白。

自由的风

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP18/newswire-china-quonglai-clark-butson alpinist网站上的文章。他们爬的是四姑娘和婆缪北边的山。
是池温山吗？不知道。
他们说是一个无名山，那只是他们不知道名字罢了，那里的山都有名字。
他们还爬了骆驼峰新路线

自由的风

关于婆缪，Clark是这么评价的：
Clark said he's most excited about a 1000-meter long ridge on the nearby Celestial Peak, south of The Falcon, after their successes in October. "The Changping Goa might just very well be the only place on earth where two people looking for adventure could find an unclimbed route of that quality, and an experience of that intensity, at that time of year...and come home."