难度8c（5.14a/b）的trad线路什么样？

裂缝

加拿大的Sonnie Trotter刚搞了一条据说是目前最难的trad线。线路位于北美Squamish裂缝，好多trad好手都尝试过，包括瑞士的trad牛人Didier Berthod。这条线Trotter搞了3年。线路长30米，经常有单指双指的锁定加大幅度动态。难点在2/3处，一个很滑的侧拉，脚点极烂，大幅度动态去够一个小边缘。此时保护点在下方6，7米处。真TMD刺激。


June 27, 2006 - Trotter Climbs the World’s Hardest Crack
Canada’s own Sonnie Trotter has freed one of the most coveted crack testpieces in North America, Squamish’s Cobra Crack. It had been attempted by many of the world’s hardest climbers, most recently by Swiss crack master Didier Berthod. Trotter tried the route 30-40 times over three years. He says “The rating seems to be falling in around the 5.14b/c mark.  It deserves a variable grade because of it's thin nature.  For some, the climb may feel like 5.14a/b, for others the climb may feel like 5.14c/d and on some rare occassions it could very well be impossible.  So, for now, it's certainly the hardest pure crack climb in the world. Cobra is 30 m long, with the crux pulling over the lip around the 2/3 mark. It involves huge dynamic throws between one and two finger locks, pain is ever present and the mental crux is overlooking the pain move after move.  The redpoint crux comes over the lip on a slippery side pull, the feet are next to nothing and it takes momentum and a huge throw to latch the final edge, at which point you're about 15-20 feet about your last piece of gear; it's really exciting.”

http://www.gripped.com/


http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews.lasso?l=2&keyid=35188

gump

Simon Carter,Good shoot!