[zt] Heinrich Harrer 卒，年９３

jane

原贴在纽约时报上，不清楚能否连上，故剪贴于此。

Heinrich Harrer, a swashbuckling explorer who told of his magical life of conquering the world's highest peaks and tutoring the young ** L＊ma when Tibet seemed as exotic as Mars, only to have news of his Nazi past mar his final years, died Jan. 7 in Friesach, Austria. He was 93.

   

The Associated Press said his family announced his death in a hospital there, saying only that "in great peace, he carried out his final expedition."

Mr. Harrer's wanderings rivaled  the fictional exploits of the film hero Indiana Jones. He was a member of the four-man team that made the first ascent of the formidable north wall of the Eiger, a 13,400-foot peak of the Bernese Alps in Switzerland. He escaped from a British prisoner-of-war  camp, then hiked across the high Tibetan plateau, dodging bears, leopards and bandits before arriving in the forbidden city of Lhasa, gloveless and with his shoes in tatters.

As a youth, he was one of the fastest downhill skiers in the world, and after his Tibetan adventure, he led path-breaking expeditions to Alaska, the Andes and the Mountains of the Moon in Uganda, as well as the far reaches of the Amazon. Later, in New Guinea, he survived a 130-foot plunge over a waterfall and the attentions of headhunters. (He carried no gun, a result of the nonviolent Buddhism he learned from the * **.)

Mr. Harrer, who became a champion golfer in his later years, wrote more than 20 books about his adventures, some including photographs considered to be among the best evidence of traditional Tibetan culture. He made about 40 documentary films and founded a museum about Tibet in Austria. In 1997, a film titled "Se*** Years in ***," starring Brad Pitt, dramatized his book of the same name, a best seller in the United States in 1954.

Just months before the movie's release, the German magazine Stern added a startling and disagreeable new dimension to Mr. Harrer's life story; it reported that he enlisted in Hitler's storm troopers in 1933, when they were still illegal in Austria.
在电影上映前数月，德国杂志 Stern 批露了 Mr. Harrer 生平的另一面：他早在１９３３年就参加了当时在奥地利仍是非法的希特勒的组织 （Storm Troopers)。

Five years later, he enlisted in the SS, the  Nazi organization  responsible for countless atrocities, and rose to sergeant. He asked the SS leader, Heinrich Himmler, for permission to marry in 1938, giving proof that he and his fiancée were Aryans. He later said he wore his SS uniform only once, the day of that marriage to Charlotte Wegener. In a ceremony celebrating the Eiger triumph in 1938, Mr. Harrer shook hands with Hitler and had his picture taken with him.
五年之后，他加入党卫军，。。。１９３８年Eiger 登顶出名后受希特勒接见并握手合影。

Mr. Harrer reacted to the disclosure of a Nazi past by saying that he had committed no crimes or atrocities. He said he understood and regretted his mistakes. He explained that he joined the SS only in order to coach skiing, and never coached an SS member.
爆光后，他表示后悔，说是他加入党卫军是为了教滑雪，他声称从未教过任何党卫军成员。

Orville Schell, in his 2000 book "Virtual Tibet: Searching for Shangri-La from the Himalayas to Hollywood," commented: "There are not that many moments in life when to claim to be a craven careerist of the most calculating sort is a step up from ignominy."

Orvill Schell 在他２０００年出版的书，“虚拟的西藏：寻找香格里拉，从喜马拉雅到好莱坞”，中写道：自以为是谨小慎微的，精心算计的进取功名的策略使他几乎名誉扫地，在现实生活中这样的例子还不多。

（virtual 是不是译成虚拟？－jane）

Heinrich Harrer was born on July 6, 1912, at Hüttenberg, Austria, near the Alps, and grew up mountain-climbing and skiing. The son of a postman, he majored in geography and physical education at Graz University. He won a place on the Austrian Olympic ski team in 1936, and the next year won the downhill race in the world students' championship.

After he and three companions climbed the Eiger, he joined an expedition to climb Nanga Parbat, a 26,600-foot peak in what is now Pakistan. When World War II began, the British captured them and confined them, as Germans and Austrians, to a prison camp.

While he was in captivity, he and his wife divorced.  Mr. Harrer is survived by their son, Peter, as well as his third wife, the former Katharina Haarhaus.

Mr. Harrer escaped from the camp after several attempts. He, a companion and a yak took 20 months to reach Tibet. It was the only avenue of escape, one that would have been impossible to all but trained mountaineers.

They arrived in Lhasa on Jan. 15, 1946, and squatted in the courtyard of a wealthy citizen who welcomed them. They evaded another order to leave by making themselves useful; Mr. Harrer worked as a gardener, his friend as an engineer.

自此与攀登无关，＊＊＊略去

jane

另在exweb上，http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=1398

mh

中国官方认为“Harrer是中国人民的老朋友”。

Seven Years in Tibet原书很有趣。

Seven Years in Tibet电影是典型好来乌垃圾。

jane

我曾仔仔细细读了Heckmair的书 (My Life)，Seven years... 也读了。

两个德国人，Heckmair 和 Vorg 是一拨，奥地利人Harrer 和 Kasparek一队，奥地利人先出发大约一天，因爬得慢被德国人追上，之后两队合一。Harrer 和kasparek都没带冰镐，只有  Kasparek穿了 一般的crampons, 而两个德国人穿的是最新的带前齿的１２齿爪。Heckmair一路替Harrer砍台阶。爬 Eiger的四人中，领攀是Heckmair，而吹得最响的当然是  Mr. Harrer.  见：
http://www.timesonline.co.uk/article/0,,60-1477157,00.html

Heckmair卒于２００５年二月一号，９８岁。

看：
Harrer reportedly told Hitler: "We have climbed the Eiger Nordwand, over the summit
beyond, to you our Fuhrer."
译：据说，他对希特勒说：“我们上了Eiger 北壁，越过顶峰，来见元首。”

看：
THE FIRST ASCENT
In July, 1938, Heinrich Harrer, Fritz Kasparek, Anderl Heckmair and Ludwig Vorg climbed into history in what became an arduous week-long epic. The men were stalked by death until the very end of the climb when consecutive avalanches nearly ripped them from the face. Heckmair led every pitch, exhausting himself physically and psychologically （Heckmair 领攀了每一段）, and Harrer, who had no crampons, climbed last. （Harrer没穿冰爪，跟在最后） All four men become national heroes in Austria and Germany and although Heckmair said Hitler gave them medals, Harrer denied it.

mh

是啊。这些事让人怀疑我们所知道的历史有多少是按所写的生的。