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发表于 2005-6-6 16:37
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主题 关于珠峰攀登的文章！ （译自纽约时报，共同分享吧）
作者 bentrek
时间 2003-05-30 01:46:58
KATMANDU JOURNAL
加德满都日记
This Year, Everybody's Doing Everest
今年，每个人都在攀登珠峰
By JAMES BROOKE
詹姆斯.布鲁克
KATMANDU, Nepal, May 26? It’s getting a little crowded at the top of the world.
五月二十六日，尼泊尔首都加德满都，世界之巅变得有些拥挤。
In the last week, climbers rushing to scale Mount Everest before the 50th anniversary of the first ascent on Thursday have set a rash of records, including oldest (70), youngest (15), fastest (12 hours 45 minutes), again the fastest (10 hours 56 minutes) and the most frequent (13 times).
在过去的一个星期内，登山者们争相在星期四这个人类第一次登顶珠峰50周年的纪念日之前攀登珠峰，并且创造了一系列的记录，包括年纪最大（70岁），最小（15岁），最快登顶（12小时45分钟），并且随后更快登顶（10小时56分钟）和登顶次数最多（13次）等记录。
Three people stood on the peak today, including Sibusiso Vilane, a climber born in Swaziland, who became the first black person to accomplish the feat. It was the third attempt by Mr. Vilane, 32, in recent weeks.
三个人今天站在了顶峰，包括Sibusiso Vilane，出生于斯威士兰（非洲）的登山者，他成为了完成这一壮举的第一个黑人。这次是Sibusiso Vilane在最近几个星期内的地三次尝试。
As many as 500 climbers are jostling to reach the summit by Thursday, largely using the southeast ridge that took Sir Edmund Hillary and a Sherpa, Tenzing Norgay, to the top on May 29, 1953. Today, along the ridge, climbers have the advantage of about 60 aluminum ladders to cross a treacherous ice fall and thousands of yards of fixed ropes.
到星期四为止，有500多位登山者拥挤着尝试登顶珠峰，大部分人是从南坡，也就是在1953年5月29日希拉里爵士和夏尔巴人丹增诺吉登顶时的那条线路。现在，沿着山脊，登山者拥有了一些有利条件，包括跨越一条危险的冰瀑所架设的60多架铝梯以及几千码的已经布好的绳索。
Climbers are also laying trophies at the feet of Sir Edmund, the 83-year-old New Zealander who is in Katmandu this week for what may be his last visit to his beloved Nepal. Mr. Norgay died in 1986.
登山者同样也将许多奖杯放在了希拉里爵士的脚下，这个星期，这位83岁高龄的新西兰人一直在加德满都，这可能也是他最后一次回到他所热爱的尼泊尔了。丹增诺吉于1986年去世。
The records for the most and the fastest ascents fell today to two Nepalese Sherpas. Climbing through the night, Appa, 43, reached the summit at 3:41 a.m., his 13th ascent since 1990. He was part of a nine-member expedition that followed the southeast route pioneered by Sir Edmund half a century ago. Mr. Appa was part of an American expedition that was there primarily to pick up decades-old trash left by climbers.
登顶珠峰次数最多和最快登顶的记录今天分别由两位尼泊尔的夏尔巴人创造。43岁的Appa在夜间攀登并于凌晨3点41分登顶，这是他自1990年以来第13次登顶。他是从半个世纪前希拉里爵士开辟的东南路线登顶的九人探险队的一员。作为一个美国探险队的成员，Appa所在探险队最主要的任务就是清理被登山者们丢弃在珠峰上的长达数十年的垃圾。
Perhaps most impressive, Lhakpa Gela, 36, cut almost two hours off an Everest speed-climbing record that was set just three days ago, reaching the summit from the base camp in 10 hours 56 minutes 46 seconds. Normally, climbers take about a week to get from base camp at 17,550 feet to the summit.
也许是最令人叹服的，36岁的Lhakpa Gela，从大本营出发，用时10小时56分46秒登顶珠峰，将在三天前刚刚创造的最快登顶记录缩短了近两个小时。正常情况下，登山者从位于17,550英尺（约5349米）的大本营到登顶需要一个星期左右的时间。
The climb today was so unexpected that The Himalayan Times, a daily newspaper, had a front-page photo of another Sherpa climber, Pembe Dorjie, wrapped in victory garlands and grinning happily under the headline, "Fastest climber says he can do it faster." He had climbed the mountain on Friday in just under 13 hours, a speed record that lasted only the weekend.
这次登顶是如此的出人意料，甚至一份当地的报纸，喜码拉雅时报 将另外一位夏尔巴登山者Pempe Dorjie的照片放在了头版，照片中，Pempe Dorjie披戴花环，开心的笑着，上面的标题是：“最快的登山者说他可以爬的更快。”他于星期五的时候在13个小时内完成了登顶，这项登顶的速度记录只保持了一个周末的时间。
On Thursday, Ming Kipa, a fresh-faced 15-year-old Sherpa girl, became the youngest person to climb the 29,035-foot mountain. Eluding Nepal's ban on children under 16 attempting Everest, she climbed with her older brother and sister from the northern, Tibetan side.
上个星期四的时候，一位稚气未脱的15岁的夏尔巴女孩，Ming Kipa 成为了登顶这座29,035英尺（8848米）高峰的最年轻的人。为了避开尼泊尔政府关于16岁以下的儿童不允许攀登珠峰的禁令，她和她的哥哥和姐姐选择了从西藏的北坡攀登。
The Sherpa ascents, displaying enormous stamina, were a salute to Sir Edmund, a straightforward beekeeper, who turned down an invitation to celebrate in London with Queen Elizabeth II to be here with friends in Nepal.
这些显示了巨大毅力的夏尔巴人的攀登，是为向坦率的养蜂人希拉里爵士表示敬意，他回绝和女王伊里沙白二世一同在伦敦庆祝的邀请，来到了尼泊尔和他的朋友在一起。
Over the last half-century, Sir Edmund has devoted much of his time to raising money for schools and clinics for the Sherpas, a mountaineering people who are the backbone of any high-altitude expedition in the Himalayas. On Tuesday, he is to be the centerpiece of a parade that will wind through streets of this city, the capital of a country that is often described as the top of the world.
在过去的半个世纪里，希拉里爵士将他大部分的时间都花在了为夏尔巴人筹款修建学校和诊所，夏尔巴人是一个登山的民族，他们是喜码拉雅山脉高海拔探险队的脊梁。周二的时候，希拉里爵士将会成为一个贯穿尼泊尔首都城市加德满都所有街道的游行的主角，这个城市经常被人们描述成是世界之巅。
While the festivities take place here, often grim tests of endurance occur on the beautiful if dangerous mountain that straddles the border of Nepal and Tibet. As a reminder of the potential dangers, The Himalayan Times today carried a front-page photograph of Sherpas dragging a sled with the body of Kami, a Sherpa who had died in a fall. Other articles related how a British military expedition abandoned their climb to rescue a British climber with a broken leg and how three French climbers were injured and evacuated by a Royal Nepal Army helicopter.
虽然这里有欢庆的活动，但是对耐力残酷的考验经常发生在这座跨越尼泊尔和西藏边境的美丽而有危险的山峰上。作为对潜在危险的提示，喜码拉雅时报今天将一位夏尔巴人用雪橇拖着另一位死于失足的夏尔巴人 Kami的照片放在了头版。其他的一些文章讲到了一个英国的军事探险队如何放弃他们的攀登转而去营救一位腿部骨折的英国登山者，以及尼泊尔皇家空军是如何帮助三位受伤的法国登山者撤离的。
A record 65 expeditions are expected at Mount Everest this season. Since the 1953 ascent, more than 1,200 people from 63 countries have reached the summit. At the end of last year's season, the largest number of climbers, 258, came from Nepal, followed by 160 from the United States. About 175 climbers have died trying, with as many as 120 bodies interred on the mountain.
今年的攀登季节，创记录的65个探险队将会来到珠峰。从1953年的登顶开始，来自63个国家的1,200多人已经登上了顶峰。到去年的攀登季节为止，最多的登山这来自尼泊尔，共有258人，紧跟着就是来自美国的160人。共有175位登山者不幸遇难，多达120具尸体留在了山上。
Sir Edmund has argued in interviews here that Nepal should "give the mountain a rest," limiting climbs to four or five expeditions a year.
希拉里爵士在一次访问中曾主张尼泊尔政府应该“让珠峰休息一下，”将每年的探险队限制在4至5个左右。
With the Outdoor Life Network, an American cable channel, planning to broadcast live from the summit on Thursday, many climbers say the commercialism, crowds and litter are spoiling the Himalayan high-country experience.
户外生活网络，美国的一家有线电视频道，计划在星期四的时候在顶峰现场直播。许多登山者认为商业主义，拥挤以及垃圾正在破坏着喜码拉雅的高地国家的体验。
"When I heard there were 760 people and 900 tents on the south side of Everest, I just felt lucky that I climbed Everest when I did," Veikka Gustafsson, a 35-year-old Finn, said in an interview here today. Mr. Gustafsson made four attempts on Everest, reaching the summit twice, once in 1993 with oxygen tanks and once in 1997 without tanks.
Veikka Gustafsson，一位35岁的芬兰人，在今天的一次访问中说到：“当我听说在珠峰南坡有大约760人和900个帐篷的时候，我感到我当时登珠峰的时候是多么的幸运。Veikka Gustafsson曾四次尝试登顶珠峰，并且登顶两次，一次是在1983年使用氧气罐登顶，一次是1997年无备用氧气登顶。
Celebrating over dinner his group's ascent of Kanchenjunga, the world's third highest mountain at 28,339 feet, he said, "At our base camp, there were nine tents."
在庆祝他的探险队登顶干城章嘉峰（世界第三高峰，29,339英尺，8638米）的晚餐上，他说道：“在我们的大本营，那里只有9顶帐篷。
But across the dinner table, Premnuru, the expedition's 43-year-old Sherpa cook, dug into a banana split with his daughter and offered a different view, saying, "More expeditions means more jobs for Sherpas, for Nepalis."
但是对面而坐的探险队43岁的夏尔巴厨师，Premnuru却有不一样的看法，他边和他的女儿分香蕉，边说道：“探险队越多，就意味着夏尔巴人的工作机会越多，尼泊尔人的工作机会越多。
To climb Everest, a visitor can pay as much as $65,000. In a two-month climbing season, a skilled Sherpa can earn $2,000, about eight times the average per capita income in Nepal. For each group of seven climbers, Nepal charges $70,000 in royalty fees.
为了攀登珠峰，一个人最多需要付 65,000美圆（约54万人民币）。在一个为期两个月的登山季节里，一个优秀的夏尔巴人可以挣到2000美圆（16500人民币），这大约是尼泊尔人均年收入的八倍。对于每一个7人组成的探险队，尼泊尔政府还要收取70,000美圆（约58万人民币）的特许权费用。
"Over the last two years, Nepal has opened 131 peaks to spread the climbing around," said Lisa Choegyal, an adventure tourism promoter here. "It is not Nepal's fault if everyone wants to climb Everest."
Lisa Choegyal，一位探险旅游推广人告诉我们：“在过去的两年时间里，为了将攀登分散开来，尼泊尔政府已经开放了131座山峰。所以如果每个人都要攀登珠峰的话，这并不是尼泊尔政府的责任。
主题 Veikka Gustafsson参加了去年的Annapurna国际队
作者 Kristian
时间 2003-05-30 06:02:26
他也是一位出色的高海拔登山者。他和Ed Viesturs（美国）的结组由于雪崩危险而没有登顶，目送着队友J.C.Lafaille（法国）和Alberto Inurrategi（西班牙）等上顶峰。无论如何，这些人都是当今世界上最出色的登山家。尤其是西班牙人成为第10位完成14-8000+的人，最NB 的是***全部无人工氧，而且空前的快：不到11个年头***，他的兄弟Flix在一起攀登第十二座时不幸遇难。 |
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