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正常线路应该是左侧山脊，大本营在拍摄照片的位置。
往左绕一大圈走，然后走山脊，这是常规的西南山脊线路。
这个正面的雪盆上的雪墙是西南壁，有些高人上过。
右侧山脊也可以，这是南山脊线路。走的人少。
以前整理的一个老汇总：
暗 神 （小毛驴0024）
G1在巴基斯坦当地语言中，意味着“华丽的大墙”，加峰系列存在6个独立山峰。G1海拔8068M，同时也被称为“暗峰”，是加峰系列中的最高。
1889-1929年，来自英国和意大利的早期探险家侦察勘测加峰系列，英国著名的M。冈威命名G1为暗峰以及G2峰。 1975年，美国人首先2人登顶G1。同年，梅斯纳尔和哈伯勒开创了G1西北线路，并2次登顶，一天后，他们同3个奥地利人第3次登顶。1977年的第4次登顶，是由2个南斯拉夫人完成，其中1人失踪。1981年，日本队成为第6支登顶队伍。1982年，有了第一个女人登顶了G1峰，这一年，同时也有了第一次8000米山峰滑雪下降。中国一侧攀登尚没有，以上攀登都在巴基斯坦侧。这些都是加峰历史上标志性的一些数据。
在这些数据中，有些成为经典。而1975年梅斯纳尔的作品，无疑就是典型的一个，这次攀登也被认为是——第一个纯粹意义的喜马拉雅地区的阿尔卑斯式。当然，也有其他人，比如Hermann Buhl和Kurt Diemberger等，他们曾经尝试过轻装快速的探险；但，如果你综合考虑所有的条件和因素，这才是第一次在14座8,000米级山峰的阿尔卑斯式攀登。
1975年，雷纳德•梅斯纳尔邀请彼得•哈卜勒参加他对加舒布鲁姆I峰（也称为隐藏峰-Hidden Peak）的探险。雷纳德宣布他们将用在阿尔卑斯山区发展起来的纯粹传统的方式攀登。阿尔卑斯攀登方式从此被引入到喜马拉雅山区。这意味着，从山脚下开始攀登算起，你就得背着你需要的所有装备，如果露营，你只能在登山的途中。你不能对攀登路线做任何准备，不能使用人工氧气。在他们出发之前，很多顶尖的高海拔攀登者认为这是纯粹的疯狂举动，是不可能的。还有人称其为“自杀”。但对于雷纳德来说，这只是作为一个攀登者的进步和超越极限的符合逻辑的一种攀登方式。
1975年8月8日，他们开始攀登了。他们没带绳子，没带人工氧气，只有个人攀登装备。仅仅这些。第二天他们发现自己在1,000米的布满陡峭的冰和光滑的岩石的区域下面。原来他们计划下一个露营地点在这个区域的上面，他们快速向上攀登，每一步都很信任他们的12齿冰爪。在攀过一处极端危险、极端艰难的冰烟囱后，他们到达了一片比较容易的地方，最终到了露营地点。他们这时都非常疲劳，也没有吃东西。搭起帐篷都变得很困难了。
第二天他们把所有装备留在帐篷里，只带冰镐、冰爪、照相机和药品向顶峰发起冲击。彼得先登顶，雷纳德在一分钟之后也登上顶峰。他在彼得攀登时摄影。天气非常好，他们相互拥抱庆祝。
这是这座山峰的第二次登顶，也是以纯粹的阿尔卑斯方式被登顶的第一座8,000米级山峰。完成加舒布鲁姆I峰之后，雷纳德成为第一个登顶3座8,000米山峰的人。
这次攀登之后，他们收到Walter Bonatti的一封电报：“伟大的攀登！你们俩是近年来仅有的将登山运动向前推动一大步的人。”
“这种攀登是你可以想象得到的最简单的攀登方式。它需要你考虑所有的事情，包括所有可以预见的和不可以预见的，否则，你就活不长。”
Eleven expeditions had permits for 8,068m Gasherbrum I, a number of which also planned to climb Gasherbrum II, which shares the same Base Camp. On the 5th, 23rd and 26th July a total of 19 climbers were successful. All climbed via the Normal Route up the Japanese Couloir. These included one Nepalese Sherpa and one Pakistani with a Korean expedition, the very experienced Ukraine mountaineer, Vladislav Terzyul, the Benet/Meroi/Vuerich combo on the 26th just seven days after their ascent of Gasherbrum II and the Spanish Basque Edurne Pasaban, who was completing her sixth 8,000m peak. Pasaban, born in August 1973, started Alpine climbing when she was 16 and appears to have a very modest CV of ascents. In the mid 1990s she climbed several unremarkable non-technical ascents in Peru and Ecuador, such as Chimborazo, but from 1988-2001 attempted both Everest and Dhaulagiri twice, reaching 8,600m on the North Side of Everest without oxygen. The world's highest peak was climbed from the south in 2001 and both Makalu and Cho Oyu in 2002. In the spring of 2003 she reached the summit of Lhotse. With her ability at altitude now well-proven, Pasaban is close to becoming the premier living female in the realm of 8,000m-peak collectors. Only the American, Christine Boskoff, has the same number of ascents, as did Chantal Mauduit before she died. The record is still held by the famous Polish mountaineer, Wanda Rutkiewicz, who had achieved eight before her untimely death on Kangchenjunga in 1992.
Sadly there were four deaths on the mountain. On the 17th July the experienced Ukrainian climber, Vladimir Pestrikov, sustained a bad injury at c6,000m on the South Gasherbrum glacier, when he and several other members were caught in an avalanche. Although his team-mates were able to evacuate him to Camp 1 at 5,600m, from where he was very quickly picked up by helicopter and flown to Skardu Hospital, he died later the same day. This Ukrainian team, which included Terzyul as mentioned above, was planning to climb the South West Face Direct, but changed to the Normal Route after the accident. The other two deaths occurred to the first summit party. Jos?Manuel Buenaga from Asturia in Spain and Nancy-Noemi Silvestrini, the first Argentinean women to summit, were descending on the 5th July when they became unwell. Although Silvestrini was rescued, while she was being lowered down the mountain it appears she was dropped. At the time of writing there are few details of this or the accident that occurred later in the season to Mohammad Oraiz, a Pakistan porter on an (unsuccessful) Iranian expedition, who is known to have died. The ascents reported above mean that Gasherbrum I has now been climbed 195 times. |
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IP卡
狗仔卡
发表于 2005-5-14 16:15
提升卡
置顶卡
沉默卡
喧嚣卡
变色卡
显身卡
发表于 2005-5-14 21:34
发表于 2005-5-16 16:03
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