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No 186, June 15, 1999 Current Issue Editorial Special How-to Sections Rock Craft Online Letters You Review Products Secure Ordering Readers Index Search back issue Link Pages Contact us |
Rock Craft | Bouldering | Destinations | Training
Recommended Reading | Gear | Higher Education | Ratings You don't have to hurt to get strongTwo reasons to train for bouldering are:
This training may involve nothing more than "going bouldering," but a little thought and self-discipline during sessions can reap big dividends both in muscular strength and coordination. If you fixate on one hard problem that you can't quite manage, you will not be doing a lot of climbing, you'll be doing a lot of falling. A faster way to improvement, and ultimately to quicker success on all your projects, is to alter your bouldering sessions to involve more success and less failure. You will get stronger and better faster by making complete ascents of problems than by trying over and over to pull off a single move you can't quite manage. Simply put: climb easier problems. Choose their difficulty so that you can climb several of them smoothly twice or even three times in each bouldering session (with a rest of two to 10 minutes between each ascent). This regimen, known as interval training, ensures you climb more moves efficently and, besides making you strong, has these advantages:
Sometimes you'll want to work that "project" problem, but only try it when A gym is a great place to train because you can create or select a circuit of varied problems at the right level of difficulty, introducing or off-limiting holds as required. Aim to complete between 10 and 20 ascents each session, climbing the easier problems three times, those almost at your maximum strength limit once, and those slightly below your maximum, twice. Important: unless you make some clanger of a mistake, you should never need to try a problem more than a third time. Always spend the first half hour to full hour warming up, and 10 to 20 minutes warming down. Finally, for those new to this program, two or three full days off are in order to avoid climbing on very sore muscles. After a few months, your body will adapt, and you may be fine with just a single full day of rest. Wills Young http://www.climbing.com © 2000-2002 Climbing Magazine Rock Craft | Bouldering | Destinations | Training
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