Rock Craft | Big Walls | Destinations | Training
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Where to go
Yosemite National Park, California
Zodiac (VI 5.9 A2+), Pacific Ocean Wall (VI 5.9 A3+). These classic and historic aid climbs scale the steep right side of El Capitan. Depending on the state of fixed gear, expect moderate to difficult nailing, heading, and hooking in wild positions. Guidebook: Yosemite Climbs: Big Walls, by Don Reid.
Zion National Park, Utah
Peyote Dreams (VI 5.10 A3+) This route follow splitter cracks on the Twin Brothers formation. One of the longer routes in Zion, it gets five stars in the guide. Enough said. Guidebook: Desert Rock: Rock Climbs in the National Parks, by Eric Bjornstad.
Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado
Hallucinogen Wall (VI 5.11 A3+). This historic testpiece resides on the dark and friable North Chasm View wall. It is classic Black Canyon: intimidating and committing. Consult the Black Canyon Visitor Center for information.
Diamond, Longs Peak, Colorado
Dunn Westbay (VI- 5.10 A3). This is perhaps the most sought after technical aid route on the Diamond. This challenging line tops out above 14,000 feet, making for an uncommon and elusive summit. Guidebook: Rock Climbing: Rocky Mountain National Park, The High Peaks, by Richard Rossiter.
Mount Hooker, Wind Rivers, Wyoming
Original Route (VI 5.10 A2). Real wilderness big-wall climbing. Expect cold temperatures at best, along with a 40-mile round trip approach. Guidebook: Climbing and Hiking Wind River Mountains, by Joe Kelsey.
Whitesides Mountain, North Carolina
Volunteer Wall (VI 5.10 A4-, or 5.12a). Whitesides is the crown jewel of southern rock. This route offers atmospheric ambiance on steep granite. Guidebook: A Climber's Guide to North Carolina, by Thomas Kelley.
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Rock Craft | Big Walls | Destinations | Training
Recommended Reading | Gear | Higher Education | Ratings