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No 186, June 15, 1999
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Rock Craft | Bouldering | Destinations | Training
Recommended Reading | Gear | Higher Education | Ratings

The minimalist climber

There's no need to trade your firstborn for a pair of specialized shoes for bouldering — any good-fitting pair of rock shoes will work. High tops give the ankle support lacking in slippers and low tops — a plus for beginners who have yet to develop specialized foot strength. Generally, buy the brand that fits you best, as you'll be spending a lot of time standing around and even walking between problems in your bouldering shoes.

In addition to rock shoes, a modern boulderer usually carries, at the minimum: a bag of gymnastic chalk, a brush to clean chalk and dirt off holds, and a carpet patch to wipe his shoes on. However, very highly recommended is a bouldering crash pad.

A crash pad is a foam-cushioned mat used to take the sting out of bouldering falls. It protects against bruised feet, but, more important, reduces wear and tear on your spine and other joints. Over years the cumulative effect of bouldering falls can be crippling, making a good crash pad well worth the $100-plus investment. Buy the biggest pad you're willing to carry and don't get cheap when it comes to protecting your health.

Many pads combine open-cell and closed-cell foams. When laid with the open-cell side up, the pad is softer — good for short falls onto one's butt or back. With the closed-cell side up, it is stiffer and distributes the impact of long feet-first falls well.

When choosing a pad, stand on it with all your weight on one foot. If you
sink about halfway in without bouncing, the pad is a good firmness for your weight. Bear in mind that cheap foam wears out quickly, while good foam, though expensive, is durable. Unfortunately, it's hard to judge foam by just looking at it.

Crash pad bells and whistles are a personal matter. Carpet or fleece covers are good for wiping feet on and may keep the pad from sliding on moderate inclines when flipped upside down. Backpack straps come in various levels of cushiness and some carrying systems are removable or can be changed to an over-the-shoulder style. Hip/waist belts are really useful if you're going to carry a lot in the pad. Zippered accessory pockets are a fine touch that could save you from losing your keys or wallet. Some pads have flaps to prevent gear, loose inside, from falling out. You may want to check to see if the fabrics are waterproof, or for some water protection of open-cell foam within the pad.

One of the biggest factors to consider is durability. Look for double-stitched or well-stitched seams, bar-tacking or sturdy stitching of the carrying system, strong buckles (you'll be jumping hard on those), and durable fabrics.

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Rock Craft | Bouldering | Destinations | Training
Recommended Reading | Gear | Higher Education | Ratings

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