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Long and free
Tired of cragging? Done Astroman and ready for more? Here's a selected North American tick list for the advanced trad climber looking for big multi-pitch adventures.
Labyrinth Wall (V 5.11c), Cannon Cliff, New Hampshire.
The Northeast is better known for woodsy cragging than big walling, but Cannon Cliff's 1000-foot face can throw you enough difficulty and sudden alpine weather to get your respect. The well-named Labyrinth is the longest 5.11 climb in the Northeast, and takes a maze-like line through a garden of forking paths, connecting thin corners and slabs. A good nose for routefinding is a must.
Volunteer Wall, Whitesides (V 5.12a), North Carolina.
This route takes a direct line up the most impressive wall in the Southeast. A bolt protects each technical crux a face and stem move into an awkward hanging corner and then a wild roof on the seventh pitch but there's much runout 5.10 above and below. Expect a bit of loose rock, and as much air as you can find east of the Mississippi.
Glass Menagerie (IV 5.13a), Looking Glass, North Carolina.
The partial retrobolting of this classic moderate aid route generated a storm of controversy, and many Southern hardpersons won't acknowledge the free climb. Shame. It's the free-climber's only possible path up Looking Glass' soaring north wall, where bathooks and circleheads reign. The crux is an overhanging corner/roof.
The Free Nose (V 5.12b), Black Canyon, Colorado.
"The Black" isn't known for perfect rock, but the Free Nose comes close enough to lure most unsuspecting hardpersons into an attempt. Following a complex line up the proud south buttress of North Chasm View, this is one of the airiest free climbs in the Rocky Mountain West. Varied climbing, intricate thin-gear pro, corners, cracks, and steep face. Originally done with a bivouac, now usually done in a day.
Diagonal Direct to D1 (VI 5.11d), Diamond, Longs Peak, Colorado.
The classic mega-link-up on Longs Peak's east face, combining two Grade V routes. From Chasm Lake, it's the line of strength, up a thin diagonal crack system on Longs' lower 1000-foot Diagonal Wall to Broadway, a short stroll right, then the 900-foot plumb line up the center of the much-steeper Diamond. The crux is a steep RP-protected tips layback at 14,000 feet.
North Face of Mount Hooker (VI 5.12), Wind Rivers, Wyoming.
A good pre-season training regime might be some "polar bear" style winter swimming and gloveless ice climbing. Catching only a few hours of morning sun, this impressive buttress, the county's first wilderness Grade VI, is notorious for cold free climbing. It'll probably take you two days to get your gear in; plan for a week at least for the roundtrip.
Moonlight Buttress (V 5.12d), Zion National Park, Utah.
If Hooker sounds too cold, head to southern Utah and one of the world's most beautiful free climbs. Train in Indian Creek for this one. The crux tips corner pitch will force many to invest a "work day" (or three). Above lies an abundance of brilliant "easy" 5.12 finger-sized splitters.
Original Route (V 5.12b or 5.12d), Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks, Nevada.
Tucked away in Juniper Canyon, far above the neon of the Vegas Strip and the crowds on the Gallery sport climbs, is this gem-like, 1100-foot sand stone wall. It's a desert wall but shady, so winter might be cold. Those confident in the 5.12 grade will prefer Dan McQuade's direct variation, which produces a cleaner, harder line.
Freebird (Salathé Wall variation) (VI 5.12d), El Capitan, Yosemite.
It took a European, Alexander Huber, to unlock the easiest free line up the main face of "The Captain." This route takes two variations to avoid the original Salathe's three 5.13 pitches. You miss the Headwall, but climb a beautiful line up El Cap's huge southwest face.
Southern Belle (V 5.12b), South Face of Half Dome, Yosemite.
What a combo 5.12 offwidth to very runout 5.11 face. While attempting the second ascent, Hank Caylor took a 60-foot fall, precipitating an epic self-rescue. Many attempts on this face, in fact, seem to end in epics, from Warren Harding and Galen Rowell's legendary 1968 ordeal attempting the first ascent, to 1980's big-wall ace John Middendorf's equally grim and stormy experience.
All Along the Watchtower (VI 5.12), west face of North Howser Tower, Bugaboos, British Columbia, Canada.
This impressive face is high adventure all the way, 2800 feet of alpine rock in a glacial setting. Beautiful, clean granite with lots of 5.10 and 5.11 climbing, plus an undercling crux.
The Shadow (V 5.13b), Squamish Chief, British Columbia, Canada.
This is the original line of the University Wall, and its outrageous stemming crux was freed on-sight in 1988 by Peter Croft. You can skip this pitch with a 5.12a variation that keeps the climb more consistent in difficulty. Seven pitches up to the Dance Platform (possible walk off), then another four (5.11d) up the oddly named Roman Chimneys.
Pan American Route (V 5.12b), Gran Trono Blanco, Baja, Mexico.
Free climbed after the addition of some controversial bolts, this is a remote, unique excursion up "Mexico's El Cap." Technical granite dihedral climbing in an incredible setting.
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Rock Craft | Trad Rock | Destinations | Training
Recommended Reading | Gear | Higher Education | Ratings