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No 186, June 15, 1999 Current Issue Editorial Special How-to Sections Rock Craft Online Letters You Review Products Secure Ordering Readers Index Search back issue Link Pages Contact us |
Rock Craft | Bouldering | Destinations | Training
Recommended Reading | Gear | Higher Education | Ratings Open-ended debateMost bouldering areas in the United States rate problems with the V system, developed at Hueco Tanks in the late 1980s. Prior to that, most areas used some form of the closed-ended B-system developed by bouldering pioneer John Gill. The V system is open-ended currently ranging from V0- to V14, but with V15 and V16 just around the corner. Success on most boulder problems usually depends more on power than endurance on roped climbs the opposite is usually true. That is why different rating systems are used for each discipline and the reason V grades and typical Yosemite Decimal grades, used for routes, can't be directly compared. Nevertheless numerous attempts have been made, most placing V1 at 5.10+/5.11-, V5 around mid-range 5.12, and V10 at 5.14-. Also note that because boulder problems consist of relatively few moves, the perceived difficulty of a problem can vary widely between climbers of different sizes or those with different strengths. For example, a climber with small fingers may think a crimpy problem is only V5, whereas his buddy with the Jimmy Deans thinks it's V8. http://www.climbing.com All contents of this site © ClimbIng Magazine 2000 Rock Craft | Bouldering | Destinations | Training
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