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No 186, June 15, 1999
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Rock Craft | Sport Climbing | Destinations | Training
Recommended Reading | Gear | Higher Education | Ratings

Tools you can fall for

Sport-climbing requires minimal gear, but all of it takes a beating. Frequent falls, intense sun exposure, and heavy wear from working moves and toproping all take their toll. Check your gear regularly. Don't allow a worn-out quickdraw or a bad section in the rope to ruin your good times forever.

Rope. A sport-climbing rope sees lots of action; invest in a high-quality model. You'll need a UIAA-rated single rope, between 10.5mm and 11mm in diameter (save skinny 10mm single ropes for redpointing the top grades). You'll also want a 60-meter or longer rope, since many new sport routes feature anchors 30 meters (100 feet) off the deck. A rope with a water-resistant treatment isn't necessary, but a rope bag is. It will protect your cord from chemicals, dirt, and the sun, extending its life by many pitches. Price range: $140 to $240. Normal life span: one to three years. Note: Frayed sections in the sheath, soft spots you can feel in the core, or excessive thickening are all indications you should spring for a new line.

Quickdraws. Invest in at least 12 quickdraws and perhaps as many as 25, depending upon where you climb. Each should have a straight-gate carabiner at one end for clipping the bolt hanger, and either a bent-gate or wire-gate biner on the other end to accept the rope easily. Price range: $13 to $26 per quickdraw. Normal life span: three to six years.

Belay device and locking carabiner. You want a belay device with a very firm braking action that still allows you to feed the rope in or out rapidly. Start by getting a belay plate or tube. Later, you might invest in Petzl's Grigri, which is the ultimate belay device for sport climbing. In the hands of an inexperienced belayer, though, this tool's self-locking function has the tendency to jam at the wrong times, like when the leader yanks up rope for a clip. Worse, it's possible to load the rope backwards, in which case the device won't work at all. Learn to use the Grigri from an expert. You'll also need a locking carabiner to go with your belay device — get one with an autolock function. Price range: $75 for the Grigri, $12 to $20 for belay plates, $15 to $25 for autolock carabiner. Normal life span: 10 years.

Shoes. If your local sport-climbing area is steep, you'll want a pair of shoes that will let you use your toes like fingers, grabbing onto the rock and keeping your legs from flying off. Slippers work great; you will want to size them tight (1.5 to 2 sizes smaller than your street shoes) to accommodate stretch. Price range: $90 to $120. Normal life span: one year.

Not all sport areas feature steep rock and monkey-style footwork. If you prefer technical moves on more vertical terrain, or hope to visit an area like Smith Rock in Oregon where balancing on tiny edges is a crucial skill, a good pair of lace-up shoes will be your first choice. The fit should be tight, but not as extreme as with slippers (go about 1 to 1.5 sizes smaller than your street shoes). Price range: $110 to $155. Normal life span: one to two years (more with re-soles).

Harness. Look for a lightweight harness that won't restrict your movement. Comfort is important, but don't go overboard on the cush. Wide, chunky waist belts and leg loops aren't necessary; you will typically hang in your harness for minutes, not hours, at a time. The only essential features are a belay/rappel loop and two or four gear loops (each gear loop will carry about seven quickdraws). Price range: $55 to $100. Normal life span: two to three years.

Sundry items. A pair of well-fitting leather work gloves to keep your hands clean and protect them from possible rope burn while belaying. A chalk bag — don't be a fashion victim and buy a dinky "little dipper" bag, go for one that swallows your whole hand. A denture brush; this offers firmer bristles then a regular toothbrush and does a great job of removing ticks or cleaning the grime off holds. Price range: $15 to $20 for chalk bag, $10 for gloves, $8 for a denture brush (ask Gramps where to find one). Life span: until you lose 'em.

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Rock Craft | Sport Climbing | Destinations | Training
Recommended Reading | Gear | Higher Education | Ratings

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