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No 186, June 15, 1999
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Rock Craft | Ropework/belay | Ropework/Knots | Ropework/Rappel

Downward bound

Rappelling's do or die

The ugly truth about climbing is that at some point you must rappel. It is then, when you lean back on the rap rope, that you are 100 percent dependent on gear. All it takes is for a sling to come untied, your rappel device to come unclipped, or an anchor to pull, and SPLAT.

For all of rappelling's dependency on gear, it is, however, a skill-based activity — you can trace most accidents to pilot error that in turn lead to equipment failure. Time for a refresher course.

10 ways to dodge death

  • Anchors permitting, rappel on a doubled, single rope. The absence of a joining middle knot will make the rope less likely to jam when you pull it.
  • Always thread rappels through metal — carabiners, descending rings, or "Rapid Links." Rope shift can melt nylon slings.
  • Girth hitch a daisy chain or long runner through your belay/rappel loop, and always use a locking carabiner to clip this to the rappel anchor. Only unclip after you've put your rappel device on the rope — and tested it.
  • To avoid rappelling off the ends of your ropes, tie bulky knots such as the Figure Eight on a Bight in their dangling ends, and clip a carabiner through each loop.
  • Use a rappel backup, such as a prusik or autoblock attached below your rap device and clipped to a leg loop. Slide the prusik along with your brake hand, and watch that it doesn't ride up the rope and jam in your rappel device (figure 1 image).
  • Even a light backpack or haulbag can cause you to flip upside down. Avoid this by hitching an over-the-shoulder runner to your pack and clipping this to your rappel carabiner. Let the pack hang and the rope will take all of its weight (figure 2 image).
  • Learn the carabiner-brake rappel. This old-fashioned technique requires nothing more than carabiners (ovals work best), keeps your ropes separated, and induces fewer twists in the ropes than a rappel/belay device (figure 3 image).
  • In high winds where throwing the ropes will likely cause them to blow around and jam, lower the first person down and, once he's established at the next rap station, have him hold the rope tails for the rest of the team.
  • If you are the first person down, it is your responsibility to set the next rappel anchor. Make sure you have the rack.
  • If you are the last person down, it is your responsibility to remember which rope to pull, and keep the ropes twist free.


Avoiding the CHOP

Don't catch the lethal disease called Cheapskate Objectivity Paralysis (CHOP) that afflicts retreating climbers. Its main symptom is the inability to understand that the cost of equipment left at rappel anchors is zero compared to the cost of anchor failure. Fight the spread of this deadly disease — don't skimp on rappel anchors! Make each rappel from a minimum of two sound anchors equalized with new slings. Avoid the "American triangle," which though a wonder of mathematics, actually compounds the load you'll place on the anchor.

See illustration.

Rock Craft | Ropework/belay | Ropework/Knots | Ropework/Rappel

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